Hyaluronic acid is one of those ingredients that’s talked about a lot in the skincare industry. Considered a cornerstone in today’s skincare formulations, it’s renowned for its ability to hold as much as 1000x its weight in water, effectively hydrating and rejuvenating the skin. But while you know that it ought to feature in your skincare routine, how can you tell which is the best hyaluronic acid serum for your skin’s needs? To help you determine which one is suitable for you, and how it really works to help you achieve healthy, hydrated and glowing skin, British Vogue does a deep dive into the must-have ingredient.
In this article:
- What percentage of hyaluronic acid should products contain?
- Is there a difference in types of hyaluronic acid?
- Is hyaluronic acid suitable for all skin types?
- Is it okay to use hyaluronic acid every day?
- How much hyaluronic acid should I use?
- What should you not use hyaluronic acid with?
Topping our list of the best hyaluronic acid serums this year is Medik8’s Hydr8 B5 Liquid Rehydration Serum. Rich in multiweight hyaluronic acid, its smaller molecules ensure deep hydration while heavy-weight hyaluronic acid molecules provide moisture on the surface layers of the skin. “This serum has a lightweight texture that plays well with all the other products in my routine while being nourishing enough to thoroughly alleviate dryness,” says contributing beauty editor Lauren Murdoch Smith, “It’s got the kind of formula that skin drinks up without sticky residue, and it works wonders at plumping and smoothing the face, neck and hands over time.”
- Best affordable hyaluronic acid: CeraVe Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £23
- Best hyaluronic acid pads: Abib Sedum Hyaulron Pads, £19
- Best hyaluronic acid spray: Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist, £48
- Best hyaluronic acid for dry skin: Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Rehydration Serum, £45
- Best low molecular weighted hyaluronic acid: 111SKIN Hyaluronic Acid Aqua Booster, £100
- Best multi-weight hyaluronic acid: Alpha H Hyaluronic 8 Super Serum with PrimalHyal Ultrafiller, £54
- Best plumping hyaluronic acid: Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Serum, £41
- Best hyaluronic acid under £10: The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5, £9
Below, shop British Vogue’s edit of the best hyaluronic acid serums and lotions to try now.
Read more: An Expert’s Guide To Concealer For Mature Skin
FAQs
What does hyaluronic acid do to your skin?
“Hyaluronic acid is one of the major components of our natural extracellular matrix, which is the framework our skin sits on,” says Isaacs. “With a unique ability to attract and retain more than 1,000 times its own weight in water, hyaluronic acid can draw moisture from the surrounding atmosphere and lower skin layers to the top levels of the epidermis.” Ultra-hydrating, it’s what gives your skin that supple, plumping effect.
While naturally occurring, our levels of hyaluronic acid deplete as we age, leaving our skin increasingly unable to retain water, which results in dehydration, sallow skin, and ultimately fine lines and wrinkles. The good news is that there is a wealth of products that can combat all this.
Enter hyaluronic acid skincare. When applied topically to the skin, hyaluronic acid works to reduce trans-epidermal moisture loss and fortify the epidermal barrier function, leaving your skin hydrated and protected throughout the day.
What percentage of hyaluronic acid should products contain?
“Usually hyaluronic acid serums and creams contain between 0.25 per cent and 2 per cent. Well balanced preparations usually contain 2 per cent or just over 2 per cent,” advises consultant dermatologist Dr Volha Shpadaruk. “Higher concentration serums are not always beneficial as they can take water from the skin. Hyaluronic acid usually transports water from a more humid to less humid environment. So, if the skin is well hydrated but air is dry it would drag water out of the skin. Very often hyaluronic acid serums are [best] layered with the cream on the top to lock it in.
Is there a difference in types of hyaluronic acid?
“High molecular weight means huge bulky molecules that cannot go through the top layer of the skin. Instead, they sit on the skin’s surface, providing hydration and a plumping effect. Low molecular weight are smaller molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin, providing hydration at a more profound level. It is used for fine lines, wrinkles, elasticity and hydration. Hydrolysed hyaluronic acid is broken down into smaller molecules, making it easier for the skin to absorb,” says Dr Volha.
Is hyaluronic acid suitable for all skin types?
“Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in the skin that depletes with age. It is essentially a sugar, composed of two sugar-like molecules: glucosamine and glucuronic acid. This structure contributes to hyaluronic acid's ability to retain water and provide moisture. Hyaluronic acid plays a vital role in wound healing and tissue regeneration, as well as exhibiting anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties. Due to these beneficial characteristics, it is commonly used in cosmetic products. Hyaluronic acid is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, oily, and dry skin, unless there is a specific sensitivity to the ingredients in the serum or cream. As a humectant, it helps draw moisture into the skin without clogging pores, making it a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations,” says Dr Volha.
Is hyaluronic acid best in a serum form?
“Hyaluronic acid preparations come in gels, creams, dermal fillers (cross linked), lotions, serums, and implants, skin boosters (non-cross linked),” says Dr Volha. “Serums are usually the most popular form for hyaluronic acid, but it can be added to creams, lotions or masks; it all depends on personal preference and skin requirements.”
Is it okay to use hyaluronic acid every day?
The hero ingredient of any skincare routine, hyaluronic is perfectly safe to use every day. In fact, most experts would encourage you to apply it twice a day, every day, as part of your morning and evening rituals. “It should be applied immediately after washing your face and before the application of lipid-based moisturisers.” Dr Barbara Sturm advises.
How much hyaluronic acid should I use?
When it comes to applying hyaluronic acid, it’s best to use high concentrations but in smaller doses, so anywhere between one to two per cent if it’s over the counter. “As a raw material hyaluronic acid is thick and gloopy,” says Dr AJ Sturnham, founder of cult skincare brand Decree that offers an array of different hyaluronic acid products. “Your skin utilises it more effectively in smaller concentrated doses, staggered across the day and night regimen.” Sturm agrees. “The ideal formulation should be at its highest, optimal and absorbable dose or concentration so that it is able to pass the skin barrier to reach the dermis,” she says. Which is why it’s so important to always read product labels. If hyaluronic acid is not at its highest dose, it will be thin, watery and, therefore less effective.
What should you not use hyaluronic acid with?
Perhaps the best thing about hyaluronic acid is that it has the unique ability to enhance the power of any and every product you layer on top of it, which means it’s not only safe to use with all your other products and ingredients (like your vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, moisturiser), it will actually increase their effectiveness, making it one of the best additions you could make to your skincare routine.
- Dr Barbara Sturm is an orthopaedic specialist, aesthetic expert and founder of Dr Barbara Sturm Skincare.
- Dr AJ Sturnham is a GP who specialises in dermatology and the founder of Decree.
- Daniel Isaacs is a chemist and director of research at Medik8.
- Dr Volha Shpadaruk is a consultant dermatologist.