Nourishing, lightweight and fast-absorbing, hydrating serums have obvious appeal on sweaty summer days. But experts say the best hydrating serums should be staples in your skincare routine year-round. “High-quality hydrating serums provide a long-lasting, deep moisturisation of the skin, resulting in a complexion that’s softer, plumper and more radiant overall,” says Professor Dr Michael Detmar, MD at IRÄYE.
What’s more, hydrating serums can actually make your subsequent skincare more effective. “Another important and lesser known action of hydrating serums is that they enhance the delivery of other active ingredients deep into the skin.” adds aesthetic facialist and clinic founder Kate Kerr. She likens their moisturising benefits to “filling the canals before the gondolas can sail on through, carrying the all-important active ingredients into the desired layers of skin.”
Read more: 2024's Best New Serums, According To An Expert
Is a hydrating serum worth it?
You might be inclined to skip over serums as an optional skincare step, but in doing so, you would be missing a trick. According to Dr. Detmar, hydrating serums are an essential prelude to moisturiser for all skin types, because they are made with water-binding ingredients that boost moisture retention in the skin. As for Kerr, she belongs to a sect of skin experts who think serums are actually preferable to moisturisers in terms of conditioning the complexion. “They can encourage hydration without inhibiting the skin’s natural ability to hydrate, whereas there have been studies to suggest the long term use of moisturisers can upset the skin’s barrier leading to trans epidermal water loss, which ultimately causes dehydration.” Translation: with or without moisturiser, you ought to add a hydrating serum to your skincare routine, stat.
What to look for in a hydrating serum
It goes without saying that the best hyaluronic acid serums will be water-based, but what other ingredients should you be looking out for? Kerr and Dr. Detmar agree that hyaluronic acid (also called hyaluronan) should feature high on the list, ideally in multiweight formulations. This is as smaller molecules penetrate the epidermis deeply while large ones remain close to – attracting water and protecting – the surface of the skin. As well as hyaluronic acid, look for urea and glycerin. Kerr says “they are part of our skin’s natural moisturising mechanisms and when they are applied topically they do not upset the skin’s own functionality.” More ingredients recommended by the experts, below:
- Ceramides
- Sugars, such as trehalose which enhance hydration
- Niacinamide
- Retinol & peptides, which boost glycosaminoglycan (the skin’s own hydration) production, thus increasing the skin’s ability to hydrate itself
- Antioxidants such as vitamin C and E
- Gentle acids like lactic acid - “a hydrating acid which helps refine the stratum corneum to minimise trans epidermal water loss, and encourages penetration of active ingredients,” according to Kerr.
Best hydrating serums at a glance:
- Best hydrating serum for dry skin: Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Liquid Rehydration Serum, £45
- Best affordable hydrating serum: Byoma Hydrating Serum,
£12.99£10.39 - Best hydrating serum for damaged skin and dark spots: Biologique Recherche ISO-Placenta Serum, £122
- Best hydrating serum for acne-prone skin: S’Able Labs Black Seed Toner, £35
- Best hydrating serum for sensitive skin: Curel Hydrating Water Essence For Dry Sensitive Skin, £17.50
- Best hydrating serum for mature dry skin: Iräye Radiance Firming Serum, £54
- Best hydrating serum for oily skin: Summer Fridays Dream Oasis Deep Hydration Serum, £44
- Best hydrating eye serum: L’Oréal Paris 2.5% Hyaluronic Acid Eye Serum,
£24.99£16.74
Below, Vogue rounds up the hydrating serums that come editor and expert-approved.
Why we love it:
With a refreshing gel texture that is quick to absorb, La Mer’s essence is a sound investment for a plump, hydrated skin. Not only does it include several ingredients our experts recommend for hydration (glycerin, glycosaminoglycans and peptides to name a few) but it also contains Miracle Broth – a precious ferment that is harvested twice yearly and exclusive to La Mer formulas. This proprietary blend of sea kelp, magnesium, vitamin C and other minerals works by energising cells in the dermis, boosting repair and in turn minimising signs of ageing. Patted onto clean skin, it soothes irritation and aids the absorption of all other skincare that follows.
Pros: gentle on skin with best in class ingredients that stimulate cell renewal
Cons: it is pricey, but a good investment for nourished skin
Why we love it:
Free from oil, fragrance and any irritating actives, Medik8’s hydrating serum is a great choice for all skin types. Those with very dry skin will benefit from the multiweight hyaluronic acid formula enhanced here by vitamin B5, which soothes as HA draws moisture both deep into the dermis and onto the surface of the skin.
Pros: has a non-sticky formula that absorbs quickly | dropper is marked with measurements for consistent application
Cons: small bottle, but a little goes a long way
Why we love it:
“I have been seriously impressed with the cumulative results of this serum. Having seen the results of the clinical trials at the launch (collagen preservation, firmer cheeks and jawline, a more hydrated, plumper-looking complexion), I committed to using this morning and night to see if it would work for me and a month later, I would say I concur with all the aforementioned. If you’re after a hydrating serum to upgrade your skincare routine, you’re looking at it.” – Jessica Diner, global beauty and wellness director
Pros: contains a host of skincare heroes including peptides, antioxidants and arginine | protects against collagen degradation for a youthfully plump appearance over time
Cons: is rich in nourishing oils, so may not suit oily skin types
COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
You’ll have seen COSRX’s power essence all over your social media feeds – it’s a hit with fans for making skin plump, glassy and smooth. Formulated with Snail Secretion filtrate, it hydrates and strengthens the moisture barrier, improving suppleness and texture over time.
Pros: is fast-absorbing | stimulates collagen and elastin | accelerates healing of damaged skin
Cons: some may not like the slimy texture
111SKIN The Hydration Concentrate
Designed as an intense treatment for very dehydrated skin, these ampoules from 111SKIN restore comfort and moisture in a matter of days. Each ampoule provides an optimal dose of natural moisturising factors and hyaluronic acid microspheres, which draw water deep into the dermis for revitalised skin.
Pros: is a quick and potent fix for flaky skin | sealed in glass ampoules that keep the formula active and fresh
Cons: expensive to restock
Curel Hydrating Water Essence
No hydrating serum guide would be complete without referencing essences, a mainstay of Japanese beauty regimes. Watery, soothing and free from irritants, this one from J-Beauty brand Curel is perfect for sensitive skin. It softens tight and dry complexions with nourishing glycerin, antibacterial eucalyptus and anti-inflammatory allantoin.
Pros: alcohol, fragrance and colourant free | has an easy-to-use pump dispenser
Cons: it’s quite slippery to handle – we suggest dispensing directly onto the face
IRÄYE Radiance Firming Serum With Lymphactive™
If lax skin is a concern for you, look to this serum from Iräye. It meets all of Dr. Detmar’s criteria for an active hydrating serum, containing emollients, antioxidant vitamins C and E and a bioretinol to promote skin regeneration and firmness. Plus, it features Iräye’s proprietary Lymphactive™ technology, which boosts lymphatic drainage of toxins to improve the condition of the skin.
Pros: contains a triple-weight hyaluronic complex for deep hydration | boosts microcirculation
Cons: pricey
Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Dew Drops
Popular for immediately giving skin a dewy glow, this serum easily competes with your best highlighter. It combines watermelon extract (rich in vitamins A, C and lycopene) with hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and moringa oil, for hydrated and brightened skin with each use. We love it for its ultra-thin consistency, which has been formulated for use under or over make-up. Beauty editor tip: mix a few drops into your foundation for a natural, luminous finish.
Pros: plumps skin and minimises pores | is non-comedogenic | targets pigmentation and fine lines over time | has a smooth formula which does not pill
Cons: has a light fragrance
Obagi Daily Hydro Drops
Nourishing enough to take the place of your moisturiser, Obagi’s serum melts into dry skin leaving it totally refreshed. Alongside niacinamide and glycerin, it contains a cocktail of oils to seal moisture into the skin. A great choice for mature dry skin, expect an instantly softened complexion that looks smoother and plumper over time.
Pros: sinks in quickly without any tacky residue | is rich in antioxidants and omega fatty acids
Cons: is on the pricier side
S’Able Labs Black Seed Spray Toner
A hydrating spritz you can use anytime and anywhere, S’Able Labs Black Seed spray is not a toner in the traditional sense. It saturates skin in a mist of vitamin C, E and ferulic acid without the need for any cotton rounds, and has an impressive effect on redness, acne, and dullness after just one use. The best part is that it adds instant radiance without appearing oily, and targets hyperpigmentation for even and glowing skin over time.
Pros: is full of antioxidants that protect skin | helps to shrink pimples | contains glycerin to trap moisture | fades dark spots
Cons: some may not like the ferulic acid scent
E45 Hydrating Serum
Perfect for when you’ve gone overboard with your exfoliants, E45’s serum is free from fragrance, resurfacing actives and any irritants. It’s formulated with microalgae to prevent dehydration, plus a healthy dose of hyaluronic acid to draw water into the skin. Rich without being sticky, apply it over a wet face and your skin is quickly plumped up with moisture that lasts.
Pros: affordable | suitable for sensitive skin | repairs the skin barrier
Cons:not for those who like their skincare scented
Byoma Hydrating Serum
Brimming with ceramides, humectants and emollients, this serum works to replenish moisture and lock it in. Its milky formula includes lactic acid to gently exfoliate dry skin, helping clear rough texture so the skincare you follow it with can actually get to work.
Pros: refines skin texture as well as deeply hydrating | great value for money | bottle is refillable
Cons: pipette applicator does not pick up a lot of product
CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
A cream-serum hybrid packed with ceramides to support a healthy skin barrier, this one is best for those who like serums with a bit of substance. It cushions the skin and seals in hydration to prevent transepidermal water loss, and has enough body to be worn comfortably without moisturiser on top.
Pros: relatively affordable | hydrates and seals in moisture so is great for both dehydrated and dry skin
Cons: some users have noticed pilling when layering this product
L’Oréal Paris 2.5% Hyaluronic Acid Eye Serum
Suffering from dry eyes? Look to L’Oréal’s serum for a moisture boost. It is made with multiweight hyaluronic acid to penetrate various layers of the skin, with a plumping and smoothing effect that minimises fine lines. Niacinamide is in the mix to help reduce dark circles, and we love the cooling applicator for a refreshing de-puff.
Pros: gentle enough for use on the eye contour | relieves puffy eyes | beaded massage applicator helps to smooth fine lines
Cons: can get tacky, but on the flip side this is great for gripping any under-eye concealer you apply to prevent creasing
Noble Panacea Intense Renewal Serum
Each dose of Noble Panacea’s serum comes sealed in biodegradable packaging for maximum potency, taking the guesswork out of how much you need to use. The blend of retinol and antioxidants here is powered by the brand’s OSMVTM technology, which delivers ingredients directly to skin cells with a clever extended-release.
Pros: deeply hydrates and boosts collagen production for tighter, lifted skin | stimulates cell turnover for renewed skin from the inside out
Cons: only contains 7 doses
Biologique Recherche ISO-Placenta Serum
Led by cutting-edge clinical research, Biologique Recherche is a brand beloved by the A-list and celeb derms. This serum mimics a placenta facial by using biomimetic placenta, which is a synthetic version proven to heal wounds and regenerate damaged skin. Great for those who’ve overdone it with resurfacing actives and retinols, it’s used in-clinic for intensive repair after high-strength peels and procedures like microneedling.
Pros: reduces redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation | is rich in peptides and antioxidants for anti ageing support | vegan-friendly
Cons: expensive
